Trip Report: A few days in Paris

We were fortunate enough to get to spend a few days in Paris in March, this time without kids (see earlier post for trip with kids last summer).  I love going back to a city for the second (or more) time; you have a feel for the city and have hit the must-see but often touristy sights, and feel more free to explore whatever sounds fun.  (I know some people do that their first time to a city, but that’s not me…)

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It was cold but we still had some beautiful sunny days.

 

My first outing was a pastry making class at L’Atelier Des Sens.  It was a hands-on class and we made four different pastries.  We sampled our creations and then got to take a box with us when we left.  They were delicious!  Who knows, maybe some day I will attempt to make them again at home.

 

We spent the afternoon in Montmartre, a neighborhood overlooking the city.  We took the funicular up the hill to the Sacré Couer and wandered through the church.  There are great views of Paris from in front of the church (even better from the dome, but we did not make the climb).

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Sacre Couer

We stopped in the famous (but yes, touristy) Place du Tertre, the square where artists set up for the day and sell their work.  While our friends bought some overpriced caricatures, we picked up some small sketches of Paris scenes.

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Place du Tertre

Our final stop in Montmartre was the Clos Montmartre, a small vineyard tucked among the streets of Montmartre, which is the oldest working vineyard in Paris.  They produce a small amount of wine per year, most of which is auctioned to support local charities.  The vineyard is open to the public during their fall harvest festival and also by group tour arranged through the Montmartre tourist office.  Our guide shared the history of the winery with us, and then we got to taste a recent vintage.

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Clos Montmartre vineyard

 

The next day we took a guided tour of the Palais Garnier.  Wandering through this opulent opera house you could imagine high society strutting their stuff here 100 years ago.  Phantom of the Opera was set there, and we saw Box #5 which was his box in the story.

 

Next we headed over to Le Marais, first for a leisurely lunch before visiting the Picasso Museum.  After Picasso’s death in 1973, many of his works went to the French state, which formed a museum with the collection.  The museum is housed in a 17th century hotel which has been beautifully renovated. While we were there the main exhibit focused on Picasso’s sculptures (not as many paintings).

 

The following day started with a visit to the Musée des Arts décoratifs in a wing of the Louvre to see the special Barbie exhibit which is running from March 10 to September 18, 2016.  This was so fun!  To see how Barbie evolved over the years and how that reflected changes in society was interesting.  There were outfits that various fashion designers (DVF, Burberry, Karl Lagerfeld, etc.) have made for Barbie, a display of Barbie’s family members (who knew Barbie had a brother named Scott??), and a wall of accessories sorted by color.  If you ever loved Barbie you will love this exhibit.

 

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Barbie foosball?!  I want!

 

Next up was a visit to the Catacombs, a place we missed on our last trip to Paris because the line was 3 hours long.  This time we bought tickets in advance and bypassed the line, which was still at least an hour even on a winter day.    The Catacombs are an underground burial site for over 6 million Parisians whose remains were moved there in the late 1700’s and early 1800’s when cemeteries ran out of space.

You can wander through the underground tunnels and into the galleries that house walls of stacked bones and skulls. It is chilly down there and there’s no bathroom, so be prepared.

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No wine, burgers, or touching the skeletons.  Got it.

I have no idea what the lower sign means.  You are walking over bodies?  Beware of bowling balls?

 

 

 

 
After that macabre experience we headed back into the daylight and headed to the Salon de Chocolat of Un Dimanche à Paris for some delicious hot chocolate and souvenirs for our family at home.  This shop/restaurant is in the St. Germain des Pres neighborhood – we had been there on our prior trip and had to go back.  I could happily sip that hot chocolate daily.

Our final night in Paris we visited the Eiffel Tower at sunset.  We bought tickets in advance, and went up before it was dark and watched the sunset from the top while sipping a glass of champagne (which they sell from a counter on the top floor).  This is a great time to visit because you get to see the expansive views in the light and lit up in the dark, as well as the sunset in between.

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sunset from the top of the Eiffel Tower

 

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After descending we enjoyed the tower from the ground, a golden glow in the night sky.

Once again the City of Light charmed us and we look forward to visiting her again.

Tip: Avoid the Lines in Paris

We visited Paris in July and I couldn’t believe how long the lines were at the popular attractions, sometimes over 3 hours long.  Fortunately there are ways to avoid many of the lines.  Spend your spare time sipping a beverage in a sidewalk café or sampling macarons instead.

[Note: In addition to the suggestions I list below, you can book guided 3rd party “skip the line” tours to all of these sites – but it will be significantly more expensive.  This may be worth it in some instances.  You will find many options on Viator and TripAdvisor.  We went this route for the Eiffel Tower and the Louvre, and were very happy with our experiences.  See my previous post for more information.]

Paris Museum Pass

The Paris Museum Pass is good at over 50 museums and monuments, including the Louvre, Musée D’Orsay, Arc de Triomphe, Notre Dame, Sainte-Chapelle, the Conciergerie, Versailles (main palace only included), and Napoleon’s Tomb.  The pass allows you to skip the ticket purchase line at most of the included attractions (e.g. not at Notre Dame).

  • The pass is available for 2, 4, or 6 consecutive days, which starts on the first day you use it.  I found it to be economical even if you were not going to any of the attractions some of the days of your visit.
  • Some sites will have a security line that you will still have to wait in (e.g. Versailles).
  • You can buy the pass online and have it mailed to you, or at the airport, or various locations around Paris.  You can also buy the pass at any of the included attractions, even if you do not plan to use it at that time.  For example, we bought ours at one of the smaller museums that was close to our hotel to avoid a line at one of the more popular locations, and didn’t activate the pass until a couple days later.  We just walked in, bought the pass, and left.
  • Many museums and monuments are free for visitors under 18, so we did not buy the pass for our children.  Some locations will require you to stop and pick up a free ticket for your child – the only place we had to do that was the Musée de L’Armée.

The Eiffel Tower

The Eiffel Tower is one of the attractions that can have a line hours long, especially in the summer months.  There are a few different ways to skip it:

  1. Buy your ticket online.  You have to be quick if you’re planning to go during busy travel times.  Tickets go on sale at 8:30am Paris time, approximately 90 days in advance.  You will need to be online immediately when they’re released in order to get them.
  2. Climb the stairs.  You can climb the 700 steps to the second floor.  It’s less expensive and a much shorter line.
  3. Book a behind the scenes tour for an additional approximately 18€ per person.  This tour takes you to the bunker and engine room.  It ends on the 2nd floor, so if you want to go to the summit you would need to buy a ticket from the 2nd floor ticket counter at the end of the tour.
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view from the Eiffel Tower at sunset

 

Versailles

We arrived at Versailles before they opened and there were hundreds of people already in line and the courtyard quickly filled with people.  See this page for the busiest times to visit.

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lines forming before the palace opened
  • Avoid Tuesdays (when the Louvre is closed) and weekends if you can, those are the busiest days.
  • Buy your tickets in advance online or get the Paris Museum Pass (described above).  You still have to wait in the security line but can skip the ticket buying line.
  • Versailles recommends the following route on busy days:
    The interior of the Palace: at 9am
    Gardens and park: 10am to noon
    Trianon palaces and Marie-Antoinette’s hamlet: noon to 4:30pm
  • Book a guided tour for 7€ per person.  This allows you to go in a separate entrance with no line.  We took the tour of the Private Apartments of the Kings and it was excellent.  The palace was so crowded and it was really nice to see some other rooms with a small group of people and a guide.  You can then visit the main palace rooms on your own after the tour, without waiting in line.  The tour went on sale 3 months in advance at 9:30am.

The Louvre

The Louvre is closed Tuesday.  The museum gets very busy, and you’ll often fight the crowds getting in but also while touring the museum.

  • Avoid Mondays (when Versailles is closed).  The museum is free the first Sunday of the month from October to March, so will be crowded then.
  • The museum is open late Wednesdays and Fridays and is often less crowded at that time.
  • Buy your tickets in advance online or get the Paris Museum Pass (described above).
  • The pyramid entrance line is usually the longest.  Try one of the other entrances instead (e.g. from the mall underneath).
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the mob in front of the Mona Lisa

 

The Catacombes

While not as popular as the above attractions, I had to list the Catacombes because it is the one place that we tried to see and didn’t because the line was 3 hours long.  There’s not much I will stand and wait 3 hours for.  I am determined to go there on our next visit but to plan ahead this time!

  • Their website recommends visiting on Tuesday, Wednesday, Thursday and Friday after 3 pm to avoid too long of a wait.
  • Buy your tickets online.  They can be purchased 6 months in advance.  Note that you must get the audioguide when you buy your ticket online, and there is also a 10€ per ticket reservation fee.

 

Bon voyage!

Trip Report: Paris with Teens

Paris is a beautiful city with much to offer for all ages.  We visited Paris last summer as a family, with our kids aged 12 and 15.  The kids loved seeing in person places they had heard of and seen pictures of – and of course loved the pastries and chocolate.

I was shocked by how long the lines were (sometimes 2-3 hours long), and was very thankful that I had made some plans in advance that allowed us to avoid many of them.  Keep your eye out for a follow up blog post where I will give specific suggestions on skipping the lines in Paris.

One general tip – it is a good idea for everyone in your family (children too) to know that it is polite to say “bonjour” when you enter a restaurant, store, or café (you will typically be greeted this way as well).  My husband almost didn’t get his ice cream because he forgot to say “bonjour” first!  For example, in the U.S. we might say “Mint chip please” but in Paris you should say “Bonjour. Mint chip please”.

ITINERARY:

Day 1:

We arrived in Paris during a heat wave (“la canicule”). It was uncomfortably hot (100 degrees and humid); most of the cafés were not air-conditioned and even the museum air conditioners were having a hard time keeping up. So we took it easy our first couple days until the weather cooled off a bit.

Our first evening in Paris we took a Seine cruise on one of the Bateaux-Mouches. This is a nice way to get an overview of the city, and the breeze felt so good on a hot evening.

Day 2:

Early on our first morning in Paris (before it got too hot and the crowds came out) we met with a local photographer to take some family photos.  I had come across the idea on tripadvisor, and we ended up with some wonderful images to commemorate our trip – and great options for our Christmas card.

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In the afternoon we went on a Chocolate and Pastry Tour . During this 3 hour tour in the St. Germain des Pres neighborhood we tasted chocolates, macarons, bread, croissants, and the most amazing hot chocolate!

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First stop on our tour

It was still very warm that afternoon so we scrapped our original plan to do some sightseeing and instead had fun at the amusement park that is set up in the Jardin des Tuileries every summer.

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A fun way to cool off on a hot day

Day 3:

We took the train out to Versailles where we started our visit with a  guided tour of the private apartments of the Kings. This was a small group tour that took us into rooms that we could not have seen otherwise, and was a much more pleasant experience than fighting the crowds in the rest of the palace (which we did after the tour) – – and it allowed us to bypass the HUGE lines which had already formed first thing in the morning.

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A private apartment of the kings

IMG_5226After seeing the main palace, we rented a golf cart and visited the gardens, the Trianon Palaces, and Marie-Antoinette’s Estate.

The golf cart was a fun way to ride around the gardens, and you can stop and park it in various places in the Estate.

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Grand Trianon

 

After we were done at the palace and grounds, we headed over to the Royal Stables (outside the estate) to see a show by the Versailles Academy of Equestrian Arts. These are some very talented horses and riders! After the show you are able to walk through the stables and get a closer look at the horses.

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After a full day in Versailles we headed back to Paris for the evening.

Day 4:

We started the day on a private tour of the Louvre with Paris Muse. We took the Louvre Quest family tour aimed at ages 13 and up, which involves an interactive game where you solve a number of clues as you work your way through the museum. This was an excellent way to see the Louvre, which is so large that it can be overwhelming. I had visited the Louvre on my own in the past, and this was a much better experience. We all learned and saw so much, and our guide was able to maneuver us through the crowds and put us right in front of the popular (and mobbed) pieces of art or artifacts.

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The mob of people waiting to take a picture of the Mona Lisa – our guide brought us right to the front of the line

After the Louvre we checked out the nearby Palais Royal grounds (and grabbed a bite to eat).

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Palais Royal

In the afternoon we explored the Ile de la Cité: the Conciergerie (where Marie Antoinette was imprisoned), Notre Dame (we did not climb the towers as the line was crazy long, and opted for an ice cream break instead), and Sainte-Chapelle.

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Notre Dame

We relaxed at a sidewalk café for a while before taking a sunset tour of the Eiffel Tower. This was a great time to visit, watching the sunset from the top of the tower. When we came down, we watched the light show that occurs every hour after dark.

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Day 5:

Our final day in Paris started with a visit to the Arc de Triomphe, where we climbed to the top for great views of the city.

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the Arc de Triomphe

Next stop was the Army Museum with Napoleon’s Tomb.

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Napoleon’s tomb

After a delicious lunch at a creperie, we went on a self-guided walking tour (using Frommer’s suggestions as a rough guide) of the Marais neighborhood that includes the historic Jewish quarter.

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a street in Le Marais

We spent our final evening in Paris at a relaxing dinner, before packing up to head home. Oh Paris, j’adore.  Until we meet again…

Tip: Planning Your Days

Planning a trip where you have a lot of sites to see or activities you want to do?  Many attractions will be closed certain days of the week or have shortened/extended hours on others.  There are often best days or best times of the day to visit.  (For example the Louvre is closed Tuesdays, but very busy on Mondays because that is the day Versailles is closed.)

How do you keep track and plan accordingly?

Choose what you want to see

When I’m planning a trip, I usually start a document where I list places I want to visit.  I record in the document notes on the various sites and tours, for example their days and hours of operation, the admission fee, the best days to visit, and whether they can be booked in advance.  I’ve found that often travel planning websites have outdated information, so I gather details directly from the attraction’s or tour company’s website.  I prefer to type the list because it takes up less space on a sheet of paper and I know I can easily print it and take it with me when I go.  (And then it’s easy to share with friends or refer back to later!)

Plan what day to do each activity

To plan my days, I print out my list of attractions and cut the page into strips, with each attraction on its own slip of paper. I then make a heading for each day of my trip and arrange the strips under those headings.  I can play around so my days aren’t too full, arrange attractions that are close to one another on the same day, and make sure I don’t miss seeing something because it is closed on the day I try to go there.

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The final product

Once I had everything laid out the way I wanted, I took a photo, and then created an itinerary that I could take with me on the trip.

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I don’t view this as a set in stone itinerary, but rather a general outline of what I would like to do.  I don’t pack a full day’s worth of activities in my schedule (especially when traveling with kids), leaving plenty of time for breaks (gelato anyone?) and impromptu stops.  For this trip I also listed “extras” to the side – some more stops I thought we might like if we had time.  If we don’t actually feel like going to one of the attractions on our itinerary when that day rolls around, that’s fine.  But this way we know that we can IF WE WANT TO hit all these places that seemed important to us when planning the trip.